long pasia???
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发布时间:2022-04-28 23:46
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时间:2022-06-25 17:08
阅读Long Pasia,Long Mio的Lundayeh族
马来西亚婆罗洲,沙巴州深远西南部与印尼东加里曼丹及砂拉越老越(Lawas)交界的地域,有个叫乌鲁巴打斯(Ulu Padas)的地方。这里有两个村庄—龙巴夏(Long Pa Sia)及龙米奥(Long Mio)居住著叫仑达雅(Lundayeh)的族群。龙巴夏与龙米奥的仑达雅族人,和东加里曼丹柯拉央—柯拉比高原(Kerayan-Kelabit Highlands)及砂拉越老越(自称为仑巴旺族—Lun Bawang)的仑达雅族人拥有著共同的传说。不管是印尼或马来西亚的仑达雅族人都相信,传说中的传奇英雄人物—Upai Semaring是他们族人的祖先。那些传说早在国家边界存在之前就已经存在与流传……
《龙巴夏与龙米奥的仑达雅族—他们的历史与传说》(The Lundayeh Of Long Pa sia and Long Mio—Their History and Legengs)这本书是马来西亚国际自然基金会(WWF)出版,书中仑达雅族人的传说,大部份是一名丹麦学生於二零零三年在乌鲁巴达斯逗留的数个星期期间,从村民的口述收集,进行筛选后,由Lene Topp撰写成书。Lene Tope—丹麦人,她自二零零零年开始在乌鲁巴打斯进行一项由丹麦所赞助的计划。全书包括封底封面加插画,只有簿簿的五十六页,以英文、仑达雅及马来语三种语言的平实纯朴语调,叙述龙巴夏与龙米奥仑达雅族人的历史与传说。书里的插画是出自龙巴夏的仑达雅族画家—Lait Lakong之手笔,非常传神。仑达雅族传说中历史与文化的遗址,至今散布在乌鲁巴打斯森林里的各处,书中也有各遗址照片,令人恨不得想亲身去探个究竟!
起始—In The Beginning…
根据仑达雅人的传说,在最初的时候,地球上只有一个人,他的名字叫Rang Dongo。神见Rang Dongo一个人在地球上非常忧伤与孤单。於是,神进入他的梦里,告诉他—只要登上那个地区最高的一座山,在那山顶上,将会有一份让他快乐起来的礼物。
地球上唯一的男人尝试登上山巅,但当他登山并越接近太阳时,热度就越高,使他多次都空手而返。
有一天,男人以香蕉叶罩护身体登山,蕉叶助他抵挡住了太阳的热量,而他终於成功登到顶峰。
他在山顶上发现一个巢,巢里有一颗巨蛋。男人把巨蛋下山。巨蛋很重,男人的体力一点一滴被耗损。当他终於把巨蛋背抵家门,已经精疲力尽,倒头就睡。
男人睡了一天一夜。第二天早上睁开眼睁时,他发现巨蛋已经消失无踪—但他听见了—一把轻美声音唱出的甜美歌曲,正从隔壁房间传来……
从此,Rang Dongo不再孤单了。
鳄鱼土丘—Crocodile Mound
古时,男人杀取敌人的头颅是一项大成就。在猎头返家后,人们将聚集并包围著一个鳄鱼或蛇的土丘—鳄鱼和蛇都被视为勇猛的动物,以进行重大的仪式。猎头的男人将会自己的剑,砍入鳄鱼土丘的背部—这,像征著男人的强壮与勇猛。
随后庆典将持续好数天,歌舞不断,喝酒作乐。
时至今日,乌鲁巴打斯森林里还可以找到鳄鱼及蛇形土丘,而至今,鳄鱼对仑达雅族还是拥有某种特定的象征。例如,在婚礼中,以白米砌成的鳄鱼米丘非常普遍,一对新人会在一项仪式上,用刀对准鳄鱼的喉部,切下,象征著新人获得那猛兽的强大。
葬礼—Burial Rituals
古时,一个人的社会地位决定他的葬礼如何进行。一个奴隶死了,就会在没有任何仪式的情况下随便入土。一名村长死后,尸体将被放置在古老有价的中国罋,以衬托死者显赫著地位。
以罋葬尸,首先要在横切罋顶,把尸体置入罋内时,死者手肋脚肋靠置胸前。安置好尸体,被切开的罋重新被封住,在其底部掘一孔,插入一根竹管,竹管的用处是让腐烂的尸体的尸水流出。葬尸罋通常以布及木雕掩盖,避免恶灵打扰。
葬尸罋可被放置在屋内或屋外的阳台或屋子附近,在一至两年的时间内还会举行一些仪式,至到举行最后仪式的时机到来。最后的仪式是一项重大庆典,在一阵宰牛杀猪,米酒飘香中,葬尸罋被重新开启,尸骨被取出、被清理,移置到一个较小的罋,最后埋葬在固定的族群墓地。
现在,在乌鲁巴打斯的森林里,可发现数个有人类骨头及中国罋的墓地遗址。
乌拜赛马林与其家庭—Upai Semaring-The Family
据说,这个故事从一个在很久以前的小家庭开始。
有个男人,乌拜赛马林(Upai Semaring)与妻子、女儿们居住在一个附近有个大瀑布的柯拉央(Krayan)的小村庄。这地方目前位於印尼东加里曼丹省的北部。这个家庭以打猎及捕渔技巧著称,尤其是乌拜用藤制鱼具(bubu)的捕鱼技巧,每天放在瀑布附近河里,总是载满鱼儿。
空的bubu—Empty Bubu
有一天,乌拜像往常一样,到河里去取回鱼获。当他提起他所放置在河里的bubu时,却发现平常鱼获甚多的鱼具空空如也,一条鱼儿的影子也没有。翌日,同样的情况再次发生,乌拜陷入迷惑和百思不解之中,不明白他的鱼儿搞什么了。连续三天一无所获后,乌拜决心要查个水落石出。他在下午时分返回河流处,藏身在河边的草丛里,目不转睛地紧盯著他的bubu。
斗巨蛇—The Snake Fight
乌拜守到夕阳西下、黑夜降临,却仍毫无动静,正要放弃时,在月光中看见一条巨蛇往他的鱼具前进。巨蛇把粗大的头部伸入鱼具里,把里头的鱼儿一一吞进肚子里。在一旁的乌拜早已看得恕火中烧,抓起剑就往巨蛇冲去,与巨蛇展开了漫长又激烈的战斗。乌拜毕竟是一个强人,最终成功把巨蛇*。
自成功*了巨蛇后,乌拜名声更为大噪,被指拥有神奇的力量与非凡的能力。那样的名声也使乌拜赢得当地人民的尊敬。
乌拜离家—Upai Leaves Home
过了几年,乌拜摰爱的妻子去世了。乌拜陷入人生最痛苦的时期,感到极度地孤单
。为了避免触景伤情,乌拜决定离开曾经留下与妻最多美好回忆的地方,他决定开始一次远行—没有设下目的地的远行。他只想随心所欲。
他在远行中来到了一个叫龙巴湾(Long Bawan)的地方,靠近巴湾河。他在那里的高山上发现一个洞穴,决定在此暂时定居下来。他用他的双手打造梯阶,从山脚的河边直达山顶洞穴口。乌拜是个巨人,他所打造的梯级特别高,普通人根本难以
使用。
龙巴湾的洞穴—The Cave In Long Bawan
传说中,乌拜喜欢独坐洞穴外吹笛。他特别喜欢在月满和好天气的夜里吹笛,他会吹得特别起劲,笛声嘹亮,整个柯拉央地区都可听见他的笛声。
乌拜认为他已经找到一个最好的地方。住在山顶洞穴也让他占尽优势,在战乱时期,他在洞口对敌人的举动一目了然,使他总是成功击退敌人。
乌拜首领—Upai Becomes Chief
乌拜的神奇力量越来越大,甚至可以随心所欲隐身。当地村民发现乌拜的非凡能力后,把他推举为他们的首领。乌拜成了首领,但还是继续在山洞过他的生活,每当村民要传达他们的希望、梦想与祈盼时,只好上山去找乌拜。
可乌拜并不是一个易以沟通的人,你一定知道如何跟他接触才行。因为自从他的拥有了神奇力量后,他所做的事件,总异於平常人。
乌拜以造剑著称,但是,如果你要他为你做一把“好剑”,那你得叫他替你做把“坏剑”。乌拜就会逆向而行—给你做出一把好剑来。
腿环—The Leg Ornament
尽管兼具超自然力量及强庄的身体,乌拜还是极度没有安全感。
一天早上,他到河里冲凉、捕鱼时,捡到一个藤制圆环。他以为那圆环是腿上的饰物,於是把它套在自己的大腿。他却被吓呆了,因为他发现竟有人的腿比他的腿还要大。
而其实,那藤制圆环并不是什么腿环,只不过是个用来捕鱼的工具。然,乌拜却为圆环困扰极了。他以为那个圆环肯定是一个比他更巨大、更强大的巨人不小心留在河边的,而这个巨人很可能就居住在那一带附近的地区或河的上游。
离开柯拉央—Leaving Krayan
心想著有一个比自己更巨大的人的存在使乌拜惴惴不安。他决定逃离,继续他的远行。
这次,他带随他的家人与一些忠实跟随者同行。他们一直往西行,经过目前位於马来西亚婆罗洲沙巴与砂拉越的几个村子。
抵达峇柯拉兰(Ba Kelalan)时,他的女儿死了。传说,她被葬在那里,她的坟墓有许多装满珠宝和珠子的罋。她的墓目前仍在山柯拉兰附近。在乌鲁巴打斯地区靠近巴复河一带(Pasia River),也有类似的坟墓小丘,据说其中也包括乌拜另一名女儿的墓。
脚印、遮蔽处与山洞的珠子印记—Footprint、Shelter And Bead Marks In Cave
乌拜和其跟随者最后抵达了乌鲁巴打斯—现今龙巴夏及龙米奥两村的所在地。
时至今日,你仍可在周围的森林里发现乌拜和跟随者歇息的地方、发现在巨石下的蔽阴处,如今已成为当地猎人的休息站。
在令人叹为观止的玛加瀑布(Maga Fall)附近的河边,在一块沙岩上,还遗留著乌拜巨大的脚印。
石雕—Stone Carvings
传说,乌拜会使他的超自然力量,用手指雕刻石头和石砾。
这些雕刻的痕迹至今仍存在於乌鲁巴打斯的马当河(Matang River)上游,例如依那立石(Batu Inarit)。沙巴与砂拉越边界的布郎特鲁桑(Punang Trusan)的一块石头,亦发现相似的雕刻。
乌拜被指无法完成在玛当河边依那立巨石的雕刻,而据龙巴夏村民指出,是一群猎人头者阻扰了乌拜,使他必须逃离。
那些石雕所表达的相信是一种浪漫的情怀,是乌拜献给他的妻子,Bau。
Cooking Stone(Batu Angan)
在旅途中,乌拜和跟随者通常把大锅平衡在几个大石上,然后生火煮食。如今,仍可在几处寻到这类用以煮食的大石。
在龙巴夏的达登巴鲁稻田,发现两个煮食岩据点。每大石约三呎高,要搬动一个大石,得费十个人力才行。
当地的仑达雅人表示,那些煮食岩的据点非常热。乌拜拥有的神奇力量,使他在离开煮食的地点后,附近的树都会枯死,除了一种叫布布(bubud)的长草,无法再长出一草一木。
汶莱—Brunei
一天,乌拜决定离开乌鲁巴打斯。有关乌拜其后的故事,则有各种说法,但大部份都说—乌拜去了Bang Pedian,也就是汶莱。
汶莱的传说中,亦出现一个类似的人物,只不过在汶莱的传说里,他的名字变成了阿旺赛毛(Awang Semaun)。
根据汶莱版本的故事,汶莱苏丹对强大的巨人—阿旺赛毛非常欣赏,并愿意把女儿许配给他。由於这壮婚事,阿旺赛毛(也就是乌拜)亦相信摇身变了汶莱皇室的后裔。
在东加里曼丹柯拉央区的一些老一辈的人,仍盼望著有一天汶莱皇室成员会到龙巴旺去探望他们,因为,毕竟他们拥有共同的祖先。
也许在他方—A Journey To Somewhere Else
另一个版本的传说结局,则完全不同。
尽管此版本也同意乌拜在离开乌鲁巴斯后到了汶莱,不过据此版本说,乌拜抵达汶莱后很快就离去了。因乌拜不觉得汶莱是他所要留下的地方。
据说,乌拜和跟随者造了一艘大船,并把大船推出南中国海,向海平线的那端前进,再也没有人知道他们去了那里。
这就是另一个传说版本的结局了。
可是,却有传言指称,台湾有一群原住民,说著与仑达雅族相似的语言—所以,谁会知道呢?
龙巴湾之鬼魂—The Ghost In The Long Bawan
满月之夜,你时儿仍可听见乌拜的笛声从巴湾山(Bawan Mountain)幽幽传来。
而龙巴湾的村民经常会看见或听到神奇的事。
有时夜里,有人会看见乌拜曾居住过的龙巴湾山上的洞穴口,发出营火的光芒。
也有人说,有时还会听见很大声的开关门声。
当人们在白天上山造访时,却没有发现过任何营火或脚印。
也许,乌拜回到了他最爱的龙巴湾洞穴之家,才是故事的结局呢。
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时间:2022-06-25 17:09
Heath forests of Sabah's Long Pasia
(Nature Watch/July-September 1996)
Text by Chua Ee Kiam ; Photography by Billy Kon & Chua Ee Kiam
The intrepid pair were lured by stories of the glorious pitcher plants in that remote region but they found far more -not only heath forests rich in medicinal plants, rhododendrons, and a splendid show of wild orchids in bloom, but a graveyard of burial jars on a hill so ancient that no tribal person could tell them when this mysterious burial ground was abandoned.
Far south of Kota Kinabalu, close to the Sarawak border, is Long Pasia, a fertile basin which is home to the Lundayeh Muruts, one of Sabah's tribal people. Enticed by stories of the glorious pitcher plants in that remote region of Borneo we headed for their village which was to be our base 'camp' while we explored the nearby hills and mountain, covered with heath forest.
It was fortunate that we had planned our 'adventure' for March (1996), as it was their dry season. Had we tried to get into the village ring their rainy season, we would have found ourselves sloshing in leech-covered mud and torrential rain. Even then it was an arous trek into the village of about 40 homes and 200 odd villagers. (see box on 'Getting There'). The Lundayeh Muruts still live a life very little different from that of their ancestors hundreds of years before them. They plant hill padi and harvest bamboo shoots, mushrooms, ferns and many other edible plants from the nearby forest. They also harvest damar (a resin that is obtained from the bark of dipterocarp trees and used in some paints and coatings) for sale, and that appears to be their only commercial activity
They hunt deer and wild boar which are abundant and fish in the clear, clean waters of the Pasia and Matang Rivers. Their village Long Pasia, in Lundayeh language, means "confluence" (Long) and "red river' (Pa Sia).
To us urbanites, loaded with our sophisticated gear, it was hard to fathom why anyone would want to live in such a remote place without any modern amenities whatsoever. But they appear a contented lot and their only health problem seems to be high blood pressure. This is apparently e to their heavy use of salt. As wild animals are plentiful, their hunts bring in more meat than they can immediately consume. So excess meats were salted.
That first night, after dining by flickering candlelight (there being no other forms of lighting), we found the chill creeping in. Night temperatures at this elevation (1000 metres), can be as low as 18 degrees C. Undeterred we decided to do some trekking by torchlight, led by our sure-footed Lundayeh guides.
On our way into the village we had passed clumps of the spectacular Torch Gingers (Etlingera sp.) and also grove after grove of bamboo. We headed out to see some luminescent fungi. We spotted some tiny ones but it was difficult to capture them on film. On the way, training our eyes across the river, we spotted a civet cat, probably on the prowl. We also met a couple of villagers who said they planned to spend the night by the streams, waiting for the fish to spawn that night. Like salmon, these fish also swim upstream to lay their eggs in the shallows where they are fertilised. Unfortunately, this is also the time when the fish, fat with roe, are most vulnerable. You guessed it. Some landed in our cooking pot!
We spent the night at the village, in one of the rooms in our guide's home. Bed was a thin mattress and blanket was a bedsheet. When dawn broke, we were raring to climb another 1025 metres, to reach the 2025 metre high Bukit Rimau.
It was a slow climb of eight hours, over unlating terrain which drained our energies. But 1 must say that the slowness was e more to our frequent stops to photograph the splendours of nature, than anything else. At the initial ascent we saw an Aroid in bloom, spotting it by its characteristic spike-shaped inflorescence. We also came across quite a few wild Ixoras, a woody shrub of about five metres festooned with orange flowers. Not only were we drawn to these outstanding blooms, but butterflies too crowded around them. In some areas of the lowland forest here, Tristania (from the Myrtaceae family) flourish. These tall trees which shed their easily - the bark peels off in scroll-like pieces, exposing bare and smooth trunks. Another common sight were spiders with such gigantic abdomens their heads were well hidden. But not only are their abdomens outstanding in size but in colour too. A flashing metallic blue and orange hue, the spiders are probably so brilliantly coloured to warn predators of their toxicity. As we climbed higher, the vegetation changed. Rattans became common. Though attractive, they were a thorn in the side. Literally. This was because the extended rachis from their leaf stalk bore recurved spines that frequently ripped our clothing and tore into our flesh. Sometimes we even had to take a couple of paces back to detach the tenacious rachis. (Some thorns may remain in the flesh and the area could become tender and filled with pus. To prevent this, dig out all thorns with a Swiss knife.)
Another bugbear on these trails are the leeches, yes, even in the dry season, But special "white leech socks," worn over the usual socks effectivIcy protect the feet. Should any leeches manage to attach themselves on our skin, we find that the best way to dislodge them is to dab them with "Axe Balm" oil (Minyak Chap Kapak).
Naturally we were exhausted by the long trek -burdened too by heavy camera equipment. But the sight of the glorious pitchers that had lured us on the long hard haul to Long Pasia brought the smiles back. Nepenthes stenophylla were in abundance, most of them being aerial pitchers. At the plateau summit, we had a gloriously clear view and could see, far worked up an appetite. The hill rice tasted good with wild boar 'jerky' and rebung (bamboo shoots). The water, albeit clear, was the colour of tea e to the presence of tannin from fallen leaves. To be safe, we boiled the water before drinking. Our native guides, in particular Fauzi bin Daud, were very knowledgeable about which plants were edible and which were not. They taught us that young rattan shoots, when trimmed off its tough covering, can also be eaten. It has a mild sweet taste and a light crunchy texture. After sampling some we could understand why elephants periodically raid the rattan plantations in Kinabatangan. (Kinabatangan river lies east of Sabah and herds of elephants are found there). We also got to sample wild mushrooms. But only the fresh buds are tender. Once in full bloom the texture becomes as unchewable as leather. (Billy claims that nothing beats Nepalese chicken for rock-hard toughness.) We also came by some wild raspberries. These are pretty but the berries have an empty core and taste a little insipid. Then we also had shoots which grow wild by the river's edge. The villagers collect these and we found that it tastes like asparagus. Another edible plant, this one grows wild along the trails, is a fern which the locals call "Parkis". Only the green shoots are collected. (The Malays also cook "Parkis" in a curry with sweet potato and it is delicious but these shoots are pinkish and could be a different species!)Having mostly had bamboo shoots from cans or the markets, we now had a chance to taste it harvest-fresh. Our guides identified the rebung, deftly chopped it down and removed the outer covering. Even with the outer layer peeled off, the rebung was about the size of a small missile about 800 cm long and they said it would be enough to feed a family of five for a few days. We ate it and found the taste mild and refreshing without the tinge of urea odour one normally gets from barnboo shoots in the market. Besides the array of edible plants presented to us, we also learned that the forests around Long Pasia are rich in herbal/medicinal plants. But it was beyond our scope to explore this in the short time we had. The next day, there were more uphill trails to tackle. Another woody shrub, we encountered, were the Rhododendrons with brightly-coloured and showy flowers. A few species were seen in the montane forests. (When photographing the blooms, do not move the branches too much. The petals drop off all too easily) Many species of wild orchids were in full bloom, a visual feast for orchid fanciers! Trekking, here in the heath forest, was a little easier as the ground had a natural cushion-like feel to it. Heath forests (also known as "Kerangas") are vegetation which can grow on nutrient poor cidic soils. Unlike the empty floor of lowland forests, the soil is covered with thick carpets of liverworts and mosses. More glorious pitchers awaited us. The Nepenthes veitchii with their rims streaked with red, the almost sensuous N. reinwardtiana and the very attractive N. tentaculata. Our journey back to the village took us about 10 hours, e mostly to the numerous photo stops and detours we made. The next day, as our primary objective - the pitchers -had been reached, we decided to climb a lower hill, Bukit Butoi, to investigate what we heard was a popular burial ground in the past.We had to trek along some rather steep trails to get to this burial ground which was located at the mid-level of the hill. What we finally came on was a graveyard of earthenware jars, some of which were glazed. Some jars were placed on flat ground, some along the mountain edge and others in shallow caves We learned that this burial ground did not have a recent past, but a past shrouded in the mists of time and intriguing legends. How did the jars get there? Of what origin were they? We learned from the local guides that these jars had been brought to Borneo in trading sailing ships, way back in history. Written records show that as early as the ninth century A.D., Borneo was trading with Imperial China and exporting camphor wood, pepper and bird's nest. These precious cargoes had been stowed in earthenware jars. But here in Borneo, among these tribal people, the large jars clearly found another use. Like something out of the Arabian Nights (shades of Ali Baba), we learned that the large jars were sectioned near the top and the deceased placed in it. The top was then replaced and a hole made at the bottom to allow the fluids to drain out. A year later, the bones would be transferred to a smaller jar and then both the jars would be carried to the hill and laid to rest in the tranquil forest surroundings. The practice had been abandoned a long, long time ago. The villagers could not tell us when. More mystery was in the air when we came on a mound, shaped like a tortoise, at one of the burial sites. The explanation the guides offered had a distinctly sinister ring to it. They said that this mound marked the place where the victors of tribal wars or disputes gathered to celebrate and drink themselves insensible after they had slain their enemies or rivals. Again they could not put any dates on when such gory celebrations had taken place and one can only surmise that it must have been at least a couple of hundred years ago. We heaved a sigh of relief that headhunting was definitely a thing of the past! Our guides cleared the area, cutting down a few trees (reminded me of what we do ring "Qin Ming") and then solemnly observed a few moments of silence. Having satisfied our curiosity about the burial grounds and the victory ound, we began to observe the flora and fauna around Bukit Butoi. Bright orange longhorn acorns (seeds of oak trees) scattered on the forest floor and noted that they would be an important food source for mammals like the Bearded Pig. Besides the common Bearded Pig and also common Sambar Deer, our guide told us they frequently sighted Long-tailed Macaques, Gibbons and Red Leaf Monkeys. We only, heard the Gibbons call but spotted a black-spotted green frog. It sensed our presence and jumped off the instant my camera flashed. Naturally easier to see were the gingers with their brilliant scarlet flowers. Before we left Long Pasia we made arrangements to photograph a Lundayeh girl and she turned up early the next morning waiting by our "landing" all rigged up in traditional attire. Like her fellow villagers, and our guide Fauzi bin Daud, she had a Malay name but they are mostly Christians. (The missionaries have been as busy as the loggers!) Yet another Last and possibly Lost Frontier?
We have been told and we can believe that the forests around Long Pasia are home not only to the Lundayeh people (one of 32 ethnic groups in Sabah), but they also are a storehouse of medicinal plants. We can only fervently hope that these forests will be gazetted a national park before the loggers switch on their destructive electric saws. In adjacent Malingan, timber lorries ply the roads almost unceasingly From out plane we saw the scarred forests of Malingan. The forests of Long Pasia -are they the shrinking last frontiers of the once mighty wilderness in Borneo? Or will they end up as the lost frontier?
We wish to thank the following for assisting us to identify the flora & fauna in Long Pasia: Anthea Phillips (plants) Anthony Lamb (plants), Prof D H Murphy (beetle), Kelvin Lim (frog) and Joseph Koh (spider). References: Pitcher Plants of Borneo by Anthea Phillips & Anthony Lamb and Borneo Magazine Vol 2, Issue No. 2, March-April 1996. "Long Pasia -to the Borneo Triangle and Back" by Henry Coleman.
Getting There-A Long Hard Haul
Our trip was organised by Borneo's Memories from Kota Kinabalu, capital city of Sabah. Expect to pay about M$1,500 to $2,000 for a week's stay for one person. From KK, the 4WD we travelled in took three hours to reach the town of Sipitang. Expect to hit the roof a couple of times as the the roads are badly rutted. From Sipitang we had hoped to get as close as possible to the village of Long Miou, which is the village before Long Pasia. But the road was even more badly pot-holed and it took us five hours to get reasonably close to Long Miou. Even then we were still an hour's trek away ftom Long Miou.
In the monsoon season the roads will be impassable to vehicles even 4WDs. From Long Miou we had hoped to get a long boat that could take us upstream (M$50 per boat) to Long Pasia but unfortunately, for some unknown reason, the boat was not operating. So we had to trek another three hours to reach our final destination. Fortunately we didn't have to back-track to get out. There is an air-strip about 20 minutes walk from Long Pasia. So we flew in a 19seater MAS twin-otter (M$35 per person), from Long Pasia into Lawas where we hired a car for the one hour journey to Sipitang. As Lawas is in Sarawak, we had to have our passports re-stamped, a border regulation despite our still being in Malaysia. Do note that the plane only flies into Long Pasia every Thursday, so if you're on a tight schele, meticulous planning is called for before you embark on this "adventure".
The Glorious Pitchers
Worldwide, there are about 70 varieties of this plant which are pretty to look at but a deadly trap for insects. Most pitchers grow naturally in Malaysia and, in a cover story entitled "Pretty Deadly Pitcher Plants" in Nature Watch (Oct-Dec '94). Hugh T W Tan featured several species, including the mottled brown Nepenthes rafflesiana. All pitcher plants belong to the genus Nepenthes in the family Nepentheceae and it is interesting to note that the ones featured in Hugh's article are different from those that Dr Chua and Billy came across in Long Pasia. Hugh had photos of the cute cup-shaped Nepenthes ampullaria, the elegant Nepenthes gracilis and Nepenthes trichocarpa.
The first clusters of pitchers encountered in Long Pasia were Nepenthes stenophylla, most of them being aerial climbers. Others seen and photographed were the Nepenthes veitchii with their spectacular red-streaked rims. They are the only pitchers that clasp tree trunks to grow vertically. The Nepenthes reinwardtiana with their curvy shapes appeared most sensuous to the exploring o who were also impressed by the size of Nepenthes tentaculata they encountered. Most of the pitchers were well-filled with water, possibly because the rainy season was just over. Some had holes in the base and it appears that these holes were made by small mammals who nibbled at the water-filled pitchers to quench their thirst. Dr Chua also noted that N. tentaculata were larger and more attractive than those encountered while climbing Mt. Kinabalu on a previous trip.
参考资料:http://www.simplygreen.com.sg/misc/lopasia.html
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时间:2022-06-25 17:09
Far south of Kota Kinabalu, close to the Sarawak border, is Long Pa Sia, a fertile basin which is home to the Lundayeh Muruts, one of Sabah's tribal people.
Long Pa Sia, in English means Red River Mouth. Long for river mouth, Pa is river and Sia, red. The village is located at the junction of two rivers; The Matang and Pasia River. These two rivers converged and become the Ulu Padas River, the river head of the Padas River. This river passes by Tenom, the Pangi Hydroelectric Dam and Beaufort on its way to the sea.
Long Pa Sia is a village of about 400 residents. The village is at an altitude of 1000m, and is surrounded by unlating hills.
From Kota Kinabalu City, it will take at least 3 hours on the road to Sipitang Town and from there at least 4 hours in a good 4x4wheel vehicle up the timber road to Long Pa Sia Village. The village facilities are Helicopter Landing pad, Clinic, Primary Scholl, Church SIB, Library, Information Centre, Hostel for pupils and teachers, Malaysia Army Border Patrol, Immigration and Solar Lighting System. The village activities are farming, fishing, handcrafting and hunting.